Putting up a lightweight partition wall

Set out the wall's position with a string line on the floor and plumb the line up to the ceiling so the sole plate and head plate end up exactly above each other. Crooked setting out here gives a wall that is not plumb — check with a plumb line or laser.

Fit the bottom track and top track (timber plate or steel channel) on the set-out line and check that they are vertically aligned above each other. Fix into a solid substrate with fixings suited to the floor/ceiling material. Optionally lay sealing tape under the track to reduce sound transmission.

Set the vertical studs/posts at the centre spacing the cladding requires — the spacing is determined by the board format and the system solution. Plumb each stud. Mark out the spacing from one fixed starting point so the board joints land in the middle of a stud.

Lay any insulation/sound insulation tightly in the cavity without gaps or voids. In a partition wall the insulation is typically for sound insulation; thickness and density follow the desired sound class and the system solution.

Run conduit and fit boxes while the wall is open, and mark out reinforcements (plywood or extra studs) where a basin, cabinets, TV or other heavy items will later be hung. It is far easier to put the reinforcement in now than to find a stud afterwards.

Mark the position of the reinforcements on a drawing/photo before the wall is closed.

Board one side first, complete the insulation, and close the other side. The number of layers and board type are governed by the fire and acoustic requirements: for linings in fire class 1–2, at least class K₁ 10 B-s1,d0 (EN 13501-1) is typically required, which is normally achieved with at least two layers of plasterboard. Follow the system supplier's solution rather than improvising.

Stagger board joints between the two layers and between front and back, so no joint runs through the wall. Use the screw spacing the system specifies. Staggered joints give both better acoustic and fire properties and a stronger wall that is less prone to cracking.

Tape and fill joints and screw heads, sand, and get the wall ready for the painter. Check that the surface is flat in raking light before handing over — defects show clearly once the wall is painted.