Planting trees and shrubs

Deep-cultivate the growing layer around the planting site. For permanent planting, cultivate to a depth of at least 50 cm (Plantning og Landskab) so that the roots can penetrate. However, cultivation is carried out no deeper than the thickness of the topsoil layer, max. 25 cm at a time (NfA 1992).

Check that the planting hole can drain: pour 10 litres of water into a 10 cm deep hollow of approx. 0.25 m² — it must drain away within 2 hours (Plantning og Landskab). If it does not, drain the hole or plant raised, otherwise the roots will rot in standing water.

Dig the hole clearly wider than the root ball, but no deeper than necessary. Loosen the soil at the bottom and sides so the roots easily grow out into the surrounding soil. A hole that is too narrow in hard soil acts like a pot the roots cannot get out of.

The root ball must be thoroughly watered before the plant is set — a dry root ball absorbs water poorly once it is in the ground. Dip or water container and root-balled plants thoroughly before planting.

Do not plant deeper than the plant stood in the nursery. For container and root-balled plants, the top of the root ball must be flush with the soil surface ±2 cm (NfA 2023). Planted too deep, the root collar is suffocated; too high, the root ball dries out. Budded roses are the exception: they are planted 4–6 cm deeper than the bud union (NfA 1992).

Take container plants out of the pot. Synthetic root-ball netting and wire baskets must be removed (or at least folded right down), while natural-fibre netting can be left in place as it rots away. Synthetic netting left in place strangles the roots over time.

Fill the hole with good topsoil/planting compost and firm the soil around the root ball without packing it hard — the roots need air. Form a small watering ridge (basin) around the plant so the water is held over the root zone.

Water generously immediately after planting — at least a bucketful for large plants, so the soil settles closely around the root ball and air pockets are washed out. Watering at planting is more important than the amount of fertiliser.

Stake trees as needed (see the guide »Staking newly planted trees«). Optionally apply a layer of wood chips as mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds — keep the chips clear of the trunk. Water regularly throughout the first establishment season, when the plant is most vulnerable.

Establishment fertiliser is applied according to the supplier's instructions — when compost/topsoil is mixed in, nitrogen-compensating fertiliser may be needed.